In Poppi, we very unexpectedly found what looked to be a professional bike shop. The owner seemed competent, but unfortunately he didn't have time to fix the bike until 16 and it was only 11.30. Not much of a choice and anyway good timing on a rainy day, so we spent the afternoon finding a camp spot, lunch, internet and doing other bike maintenance. He first asked for 50 euro for the new bearings but settled for 30 euro...