Riding west all afternoon I had the stunning Pamir mountains to the left (south). The wind was now north so I had a strong sidewind increasing my speed on the flattish stretch towards small town Sary-Tash. The last 5-6k into town was uphill and north into the wind, so my speed again dropped to single-digit. I had read good things about the town, but people seemed unfriendly and nobody could or would help get petrol for my stove...